In Conversation With Modupe Emmanuel Of SALT Lagos
Modupe Emmanuel is the Head Chef and founder of SALT Lagos and we don't need to tell you that she knows her cakes! Although she is a lawyer by profession, she abandoned a 4-year old law career for the culinary arts. She is Le Cordon Bleu-trained (yes, that one) and founded SALT Lagos in 2014.
SALT has constantly pushed the boundaries of dessert, delivering an authentic experience with every pastry.
A while ago, we had a fun conversation with Modupe about her love for food and baking, her interesting childhood, and a few of her favourite things.
1. What’s your favourite thing to bake, and what’s your least favourite?
Hmm...that’s a difficult one. I enjoy baking all kinds of cakes, but my least favourite thing to bake is macarons for sure! They are quite temperamental, too much of a diva.
2. How did you discover your love for baking?
I’ve always enjoyed cooking and being in the kitchen, but I think my love for baking became deeper while I was practicing law. I would crave certain things that I knew I couldn’t easily find and then decide to bake them myself. In fact, I had started baking to sell even before I went to culinary school.
3. What did your family and friends think of the transition from Law to Culinary School?
Most of my friends were super excited and thought it was about time! Some even cried when I told them. My siblings and mum knew that I'd always wanted to go to culinary school so they were excited for me. It took some time for my dad to get used to it, but he became supportive when he realised I had no passion for what I was doing.
4. You studied at Le Cordon Bleu, an opportunity most ever only dream of. How was that experience?
My word! I always say that year was one of the best years of my life. Culinary school was very intense and amazing at the same time. Life in a kitchen can be chaotic, but my instructors prepared me for that - they were strict and that taught me discipline.
The skills I learned in culinary school are priceless. Those foundational skills and techniques are why I can work my way through any recipe.
5. Walk us through your typical day.
My day usually starts early: I get my son ready for school, drop him off, and then head to the kitchen. I usually get to the kitchen at around 8.30 am.
My team and I go through what we need to do for the day (basic administrative work), then I'm off to the kitchen to work on whatever orders are due for the day.
After school, I pick my son and nieces up and sometimes I go back to the kitchen to get some work done before closing up for the day.
During peak periods like holidays, I’m at work all day. Sometimes we work till 2 am and resume around 6 am until we are done with all our orders.
6. What would we find if we looked into your refrigerator?
A whole lot of butter! Then cream cheese, chocolates, whipping cream, milk, berries, purées, and sometimes cakes and other desserts ready to be picked up by customers - it’s like sweet heaven.
7. What’s the most challenging part of running a business in Lagos?
It’s almost like everything is working against you, from infrastructure to finding supplies. Sometimes we have network issues, or the internet isn’t working, or there’s traffic, which affects deliveries. More recently, it has been especially challenging to get dairy products! Finding butter or cream cheese or whipping cream is like sourcing for diamonds. It’s very difficult and it’s expensive, and it makes it difficult for bakers to deliver quality work.
8. You’re known for your rustic takes on cakes. Where do you go for inspiration?
Honestly, I’m more about the taste of the cakes and not decoration, so I don’t like to focus too much on the outside of the cake. I love working with berries and fresh flowers as embellishments. Somehow, the rustic, simplistic decorations became my signature. I’m an uncomplicated person, and my personality is reflected in everything I do.
9. What’s a favourite food memory from childhood?
When I was maybe 6 or 7 years old, my friend and I made lunch when we got back from school. I remember very vividly that we made eba. It was our first attempt and it was rubbish, lol. But we tried again and it turned out pretty okay.
Another thing that shaped my food journey was pounding yam from the age of 5. I always tell people this but they never believe. Well, I’m Ijesa, so pounded yam is a must! It was a chore, but for me, being asked to pound yam was usually exciting.
10. What do you enjoy most about your work?
Great feedback about the taste of my desserts and the joy people experience when they eat a SALT Lagos product, that always excites me. I also love it when I try something new and it turns out great or creating cake combinations or dessert combinations.
11. How do you infuse the Nigerian element into your food?
I work with the Nigerian palate a lot more with our savoury items like our yummily-filled Nigerian meat pies and sausage rolls. We also make a delicious suya sandwich and ayamase stew.
12. There’s a fitfam wave spreading all over the country. Do you make low-calorie options for clients?
In my opinion, if I’m going to eat cake, I need to feel all that rich and decadent taste. I don't believe in low-calorie desserts, but if a customer requests it, we, of course, oblige them. We don't usually make this public, but sometimes we make keto meat pies for a particular client.
13. What’s the weirdest cake request you’ve ever received?
Hmmm... I can’t think of any at the moment. I really can't picture myself saying "no, we can't do that". I always love the challenge!
14. What would you say is your biggest achievement since you started SALT Lagos?
There have been so many, but being named one of the most inspirational women in Nigeria and being featured at the queen’s birthday party in 2019 are up there.
15. Tell us some Nigerian bakers you admire.
Hans and Renee, Livvy’s Twist, Dainty Affairs, Tosan, Dr Roberts’...these are just a few of my favourite Nigerian bakers.
16. How do you relax after a long week?
I’m an introvert, so I love to stay at home and spend time with my family.
17. Do you mentor any young female bakers?
I wouldn’t say there’s anyone in particular at the moment but I’m very happy to answer questions my fellow bakers ask. I usually get a lot of questions from bakers or people in the food industry and I believe I’ve been able to help as best as I can.
18. Three women in history you’d like to have dinner with are…
First is Anne-Sophie Pic - I mean 8 Michelin stars is no joke! Olufunmilayo Ransom-Kuti is on my list because of her guts and fearlessness. Last but not least is Princess Diana - because she was bold and very brave.
19. Finally, we need you to settle this for us once and for all: red velvet cake or chocolate cake?
Definitely chocolate cake!